Kurt's Bus
"All aboard, move to the rear of
the bus thankyou ...
...tickets please." Spinifex takes us on board
'Look, it could be. It could be Kurt's
bus.' I was being careful. He knew a lot about old cars and trucks and
things like that and I didn't. Couldn't let him know though.
He was crawling all over it like an ant on sugar. He loved these old
things.
'No compliance plate, they used them even then you know.' He rubbed
his head. 'A curved back bus, the last one like that you would've seen
about, oh I don't know, about 1956 or 1957. This old thing could be
that recent.' He looked her over lovingly and stroked his chin.
We were just a little bit outside of town this time. The skeleton of
an old omnibus was stuck up on creaking and rusty old forty four gallon
drums. A busted roof rack that was once set on the top and a beautiful
old curved ladder leading up to the top both had spinifex sprouting
up through them. They were lying uselessly in the red dirt.
'Kurt's old bus looked a bit like this but I think it was a different
vehicle. This has got to be a Ford or Chevrolet. His old 'Barkly Belle'
was an International, I think.'
By Kurt, we meant the road pioneer Kurt Johannson who, among a million
other things associated with early road transport in the Territory,
used to run a bus up here from Alice. He used to do the mail run for
years, way back in the thirties as well. He was a vital link to the
goldfields, bringing up stores and the precious mail and on occasions
a special bottle, ordered by the odd miner around the diggings. Their
occasional treat in the hard place this had been.
We'd been looking for a while at old machines and cars and bits of trucks.
They're littered everywhere if you look. Out at Mad Mick's, on the alluvial
fields, there's a great old Ford twin spinner, about 1953 model, and
a Vanguard from maybe 1956.
The old man rolled one of them with us in it one day. We didn't get
hurt but I still remember my brother punching me in the ribs to make
me cry because the ambulance bloke was giving us ice creams to stop
us crying and he wanted a couple more. And then there's an old, old
chevvie, maybe 1939 with the sloped back, just like in the gangster
movies, it's out at Mad Mick's too.
Out at Fazel Dean's there's the left-overs of a Model A, an early Henry
Ford thank you very much, parts strewn all over and never to be put
back together. Burnt out seats and old gearboxes and parts of panels.
Have a look around Eldorado and there's more recent trucks and chasses
and funny bits and pieces.
'Much chance of restoring any of those old heaps down at Wauchope?'
I asked him.
'Probably not. Maybe you could, but finding those parts and pieces ,
that'd be a huge job just in itself.; He paused. 'You see some pretty
amazing fix-up jobs though on old vehicles. Think about that pile of
panels and mudguards and stuff down at the wolfram mines at Wauchope.'
Someone had piled up some pieces of an old A model Ford. It looked suspiciously
like they had intended to come back and take the parts away. But there
was spinifex growing through it and whoever had done it seemed to have
gone cold on the idea.
'Yeah, there's bits and pieces everywhere. Some of it I just don't know.
Some's easy though. He quietly gloated over his superior knowledge.
'There's the old Blitz truck on the highway just up at Pine Creek and
then that other big chunk of one down below the Estralita, near that
mine that we can't put a name too.'
His mind was racing, a bit different to the speed those old things used
to get along at in those days. And those blokes in the thirties and
around then, they used to be incredible mechanics and fixers. Blow a
tyre and there's no spare? Too easy. Just pack the tyre with spinifex,
put a couple of thick rubber strips across the hole if there was one
and Bob's your uncle. As good as a modern radial. Break an axle? Carve
one out of some strong straight timber and bang it in. It'll do for
ten to fifteen miles, good enough to maybe get you out of trouble.
And drive that vehicle until you can't do anymore to make it go. Littered
around everywhere, at the Whippett, near Plain Jane, out past the Mammoth,
just everywhere really are the bones of those old work horses, cars
and trucks both that were driven and fixed, driven and fixed and then
finally just left there, all worn out. A metallic tribute to old engineering
and then old bush innovation.
They worked them hard. There weren't graders around to give a nice surface
to the roads or tracks they drove along and they carried some weights,
those old trucks. In the real early days they had to carry forty-four
drums full of promising ore down over that rotten track to Alice to
the train. They'd go to Peterborough for crushing then from there.
Those old miners had to have their vehicles, relied on them to survive
really and they jury-rigged and fiddled and cannibalised bits off other
vehicles and kept them going just as long as they could. And then they
just left them.
I turned around to say something to him but he wasn't there. He'd got
a rusty old five gallon drum, climbed up on board and was sitting on
it at the old buses steering wheel, spinning and turning it and bouncing
over some rougher roads in his mind than even Kurt had had to manage.
I left him to it. Someone had to get the mail through.