A ROAD TRIP
By Spinifex
Armsfull of KFC, MacDonald's, iced coffee,
six packs of beer, Maltesers, Minties and the Lord knows what else,
Boof was ready for a road trip. He also had a fine bottle of wine which
I'd suggested would really complement his quite excellent cellar.
"You never know what can happen on a road trip!" He tried
to justify his gluttony. "It's a long way back to the Creek from
here and we might break down and be stuck out in the desolate isolated
outback and starve to death." He smugly looked around at the foothills
just out of the Alice, the skeleton hills lounging low across the landscape
all around.
"Gosh, you know, we do it tough up here!" he gushed.
In the rearview mirror I saw Miss Kitty, her long legs curled up beneath
her on the back seat look at the back of his head with malice and sneer
just ever so slightly. This, I thought, just might be an interesting
next few hours. The Professor, his wire-rimmed glasses winking in the
soft afternoon sun, stroked his goatee beard reflectively and chuckled
quietly to himself.
We'd all been down to the Alice for the weekend and had shopped and
cavorted in the big smoke. With throbbing heads, we were all glad to
be on the road home.
"You wouldn't have the slightest idea of what it is to do it tough,"
purred Miss Kitty. "One of these days you should get out of your
dreamworld and read a little bit about the early days of travel around
these parts." She wasn't going to let him off the hook. "Margot
Miles tells a few yarns about travel back then, and Kurt Johannsen too.
If you think you're doing it tough now, on a perfect blacktop highway,
engineered and properly cambered, built up against flooding wherever
possible, and dustfree, travelling at high speed, then you're an even
bigger idiot than I imagined."
She spat this last sentence out with some venom. Boof, miffed and deeply
put out, twisted the lid off the first of his stubbies and commenced
to spill quantities of it down his throat, although a lot of it went
down his shirt front and chin and neck as well.
"It used to take at least three days back then, idiot." she
continued. "Margot tells how the track, just ruts really, bounced
along through dust and sand, with great swirls of it coating you all
over. You used to bounce all over the place when you hit a tree root
and were lucky not to get thrown out. No seat belts then. And the drivers
hated taking women, reckoned they needed to pee all the time and were
a bloody nuisance because they wore so many clothes that it took them
hours to get their gear off and answer the call of nature." Her
tone of voice indicated she was starting to rev up a bit.
He wound down the window and was about to hurl the now-empty stubby
out onto the roadside. Miss Kitty leant forward and delicately drew
a long and pointed, glowing-red finger nail down the back of his neck,
leaving an angry red welt which immediately began to weep a thin trickle
of blood. Ouch! I thought, even I can feel that one. My window's staying
up all trip!
"If," she whispered into his ear, "if the first thing
that goes out that window is your stubby, then surely the second thing
that goes out your window will be you." The window wound back up
at lightening speed and he ripped the top off another stubby, gurgling
the contents in panic.
"Once Olive Pink, of Love Pink Flora Reserve fame, travelled with
Margot back up here. They were in a truck with a particularly uncouth
lout, rather like you no doubt," this vicious retort fitting perfectly
naturally into her conversational flow, "and they camped by the
side of the road. Olive Pink was determined not to be molested by this
no-hoper and slept with revolver cocked and ready to fire. She always
travelled with the gun and she was quite prepared to let this male type
pig-thing have it if he'd tried anything on. Margot was terrified all
night long that she'd end up with a couple of holes through her! Just
like I'd be more than happy to feed you a lead sandwich. "
Her mild delivery of this concealed her intent. Boof in real fear forgot
himself and wound down the window again, preparing to let three bottle
tops, three stubbies and an armful of paper bags and detritus from our
throw-away society go out onto the highway verges.
"Keep Australia beautiful," she murmured as the finger nail
drew another red line down the back of his neck. He winced in pain and
rubbed furiously at the seeping spot. "It used to take them three
days at least back then to do the trip, in the nineteen thirties, and
sometimes a lot more if the road was flooded."
The Professor, an amused spectator to all that went on leant forward
and looked over my shoulder at the speedo. You could almost hear the
microchips click and seeth in his head as he calculated. At least there
wasn't smoke coming out his ears yet.
"At the speed at which we are currently travelling, we will arrive
in Tennant Creek in approximately two hours time, having been travelling
for fifty minutes already, covering the distance of five hundred and
ten kilometres at a speed of fifty metres per second, consuming precious
and unsustainable petroleum resources needlessly and placing all of
our lives at risk." You're an idiot as well, I thought, but didn't
have a chance to tell him so as he burst into a tirade of his own.
"The old road, which used to follow the Old Telegraph Line was
a deplorable pile of dust and sand which wound around trees and rocks
and threatened both vehicle and traveller at every twist and turn."
He paused and pompously ploughed ahead. "It descended into a morass
of mud and slime at the slightest shower of rain. That great pioneer
of the Centre, Kurt Johannsen," and here he voice caught with emotion
and respect, "the greatest tinkerer and innovator of mechanics
and engineering and road travel and mining, the list is endless, narrates
many anecdotes elucidating his ingenious solutions to breakdowns and
boggings during the early days." He sighed dramatically. "If
I thought you were able to read," he puffed across at Boof, "I'd
recommend his book 'A Son of the Red Centre' to you."
Now thoroughly outraged, Boof wound down his window and set himself
to let six empty stubbies fly. Another fiery red line appeared down
the back of his neck and he yelped in distress. Miss Kitty purred in
pleasure. Hell I thought, soon his neck's going to resemble Aussie Rules
goalposts!
"The massive dangers posed by the impending invasion by the Japanese
during the Second World War alerted the authorities to the need for
a safe, direct all-weather road from the south to the Top End and so
the old days of dragging a huge tray of steel to establish the road
again was no longer seen as in any way practicable." He paused
for breath. "That which we travel along today parallels the old
route, the first Stuart Highway, which was put into place in record
time by a special road unit in 1940. However, that upon which we are
now rapidly nearing our destination is a vastly superior example of
modern technology. The old army road, indeed until recent improvements
the old Stuart Highway itself was a dreadful and dangerous thing to
drive, remnants of which you may see from time to time during our mad
rush back to civilisation from that great Sodom of Alice Springs."
I wondered what the good burghers of Alice Springs would have thought
of the Professor's comments. My turn to have a go, I decided. I'd be
nice to Boof, after all, I might score his leftover beers at the end
of the trip. "After the connecting road from Mount Isa went in
and joined the north road at Threeways, another record road-making venture
by the way, the Yanks took over that eastern stretch of the road in
about 1943. It was mainly Afro-Americans who were the drivers and they
had strict orders not to break their convoy up into small parts. If
they ran into the Australian convoy heading north at Threeways they'd
just barge right into the Australian line of trucks (they're travelling
at about fifty miles an hour remember, in direct contravention of orders)
and trucks and cars and everything would be going everywhere. Those
Yank drivers, big white teeth flashing in huge grins the stories go,
would just roar on through."
I thought a bit. "You know, you remember when we went to Cabbage
Bore and saw that huge pile of old rusted Department of Defence food
tins?" He nodded, sobbing softly because Miss Kitty had clawed
him again, just for fun. "Well, that used to be a food stop - lunch
in fact. There were stopping places all over on the way up from Alice
- they'd travel about two hundred miles a day but stop at Ti-Tree for
lunch, sleep at Barrow Creek, a cup of tea at Bonney Well, lunch at
Cabbage Tree, past Churchill's Head on the old highway and into Banka
Banka for dinner and a sleep."
"Just like the Little Possum needs to do himself" smirked
Miss Kitty as I pulled into his driveway. He stumbled out of the car,
clutching huge armsful of rubbish and bottles and suchlike. The back
of his neck glowed like Broadway on a dark night.
"Thanksh, thanksh," he cried, jubilant to be home and forgetting
all the pain "thanksh for the wonderful trip. And Jeesh, didn't
we keep the highway clean!"
Miss Kitty rolled her eyes at me but I just scrabbled through the things
left on the floor. Ah, there it was! In his rush to avoid his tormentors
he'd forgotten the bottle of St Henri claret! Yes indeed, thanks for
the wonderful trip! See you next week I thought. Maybe Grange Hermitage
next time, hmm?
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'Blitzer' the mail
truck bogged at Barrow Creek.
On of the first airconditioned
tourist trucks on the way to Palm Valley. Both photos are from A Son of
'The Red Centre' by Kurt G. Johannsen.
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